| Sarawak, Brunei,
Kelantan and Terengganu
23.8: Munich -> KL
24.8: KL -> Kuching
-> Bako NP
27.8: Bako ->
Kuching -> Miri
28.8: Miri ->
29.8: Mulu NP
30.8: Miri ->
-> Sibu -> Miri
1.9: Miri ->
3.9: Bario ->
Brunei -> Mt Kinabalu NP
5.9: Park HQ
-> Laban Rata
6.9: Laban Rata
-> Mt Kinabalu -> Kota Kinabalu
7.9: Kota Kinabalu
-> Kota Belud -> Kota Bharu
8.9: Kota Bharu
-> Kuala Terengganu -> KL
13.9: KL ->
from Part 3
Kinabalu NP HQ -> Laban
Rata resthouse (3300 m)
heated bed in 10-bed room in Laban Rata resthouse, shared (hot) showers
and bathrooms, RM 32.60
in the morning, then there is a mix of blue sky and clouds; weather
towards the evening; night with stars
I'm ready with my bags in the Mt
Kinabalu NP HQ at about 10:15am. By chance I run into a group of
people who also will do the climb. We agree to share the guide. This
down the cost of guide and transportation to RM 14 per person (70 RM
the guide + 40 RM for the minibus to the Timpohon gate divided by
At the Timpohon gate there is a first
checkpoint (we are all wearing ID-badges with our names around the
where our names are checked with a list. The climb starts then at
The group (five guys, three ladies) is quite fast, with the first
reaching the Laban Rata resthouse after three hours and the last after
4:20 hours. I reach the resthouse after 3:40 minutes. After that I have
three meals (noodle soup, fried rice) in the resthouse restaurant. Food
here is relatively expensive, as everything is carried up on the back
In the evening there is a wonderful
sunset and the weather improves even further. I go sleeping at 8pm
to get up at 3:40 am the next day and start the climb at 4am (I'm
to reach the summit a bit after 6am - last time I did the climb the
happened at about 6:30am). This way I won't arrive too early on the
and be stuck freezing in the darkness.
Rata resthouse (3300 m) -> Mt Kinabalu
(4100m) -> Kinabalu
KK, 70 RM for a room with A/C, bath + hot shower, TV, telephone,
I first check in at the Kinabalu hotel (KK) but check out half an hour
later when it turns out that the telephone is not direct dial
to download the emails with the computer)
sunrise, spotless blue sky on the Mt Kinabalu summit in the morning;
with almost no clouds the whole day
in Kota Kinabalu coverage by Celcom, Maxis, Digi and TMTouch
I'm woken up at 2am by the other
climbers who get up and prepare for the climb. I continue lying in the
bed until 3:40am then get ready and finally start the climb at 4:05am.
On the way to the summit I run into several members of our climbing
- everybody is more or less on his own, with the exception of the three
girls who climb together with our guide. There is a second checkpoint
the Sayat-Sayat hut where our names and group-Id are noted down. Looks
like they want to make sure that only those who have payed the RM 100
fee make the climb. I reach the Km 8 table at 5:37am - surprisingly
Since it's still dark and I don't want to freeze on the summit waiting
for the sunrise I slow down a bit. I reach the summit at 6:05am - two
after I started. At the same time the sun rises - earlier than in my
climbs. Perhaps in August the sun rises earlier in Malaysia.
There is a HUGE crowd on the summit.
People are queueing up to take photos. Later I'm being told that there
was also a huge crowd at 3am, when the majority of the climbers
People queueing up along the path to the summit. By the way, a freezing
wind is blowing. I didn't experience that last time.
I stay on the summit until 7 something
am, then go down and am back at the Laban Rata resthouse at 8:15am. I'm
very tired by the way. After a breakfast I pack my things and leave the
resthouse a bit after 9am. Going down turns out to be even more
than going up, as my leg muscles aren't trained at all. In any case I
to be down at the Timpohon gate at 11:45am. Brian, the Speedy Gonzales
and fitness freak of our team, rushed down from the resthouse to the
gate in 1:50h.
I then get back by bus to the Kinabalu
park HQ, where I have some lunch. After packing my things, at 1:30pm I
walk to the road and wait for a bus or minibus to KK. After one hour
a minibus picks me and two other people up. We arrive in KK before 4pm.
Then I look for a hotel (see above), download my 500 emails and have
Kinabalu -> Kota Belud
Abdul Rahman NP -> Kota
Hotel: I check
out of the Ruby hotel at 5pm and they charge me another full night for
that (!). The guy at the reception refused to give me a half day
In Kota Bharu:
Star Hotel; budget hotel, 45 RM for a room with A/C, bath, TV, cold
the whole day with some small clouds and a very thin high altitude
Kota Kinabalu see above, Kota Bharu: TMTouch (and the other networks
I manage to get up at 7:15am and
leave the hotel at 8am, heading towards the minibus station. After
the buses it turns out that there are no buses leaving for Kota Belud
there is just a minibus, which however leaves at 10am, according to the
driver. So I look for a taxi and after some price negotiations (we
on RM 70) we leave for Kota Belud at 8:25am. It takes 1:10h to reach
market in Kota Belud. Along the road to Kota Belud there are some rice
According to the Lonely Planet the
Sunday market in Kota Belud is a very special event with people from
over Sabah meeting for trading goods. And in fact the market is nice
interesting, but not that special - at least not for somebody who has
seen plenty of markets in Malaysia. The Bajau horsemen are missing.
is some horse shit every now and then, so I'd guess that by the time I
arrived (9:35am) the show must have already finished. In any case
knows anything about Bajaus and horses.
After about one hour I go back or
let's say start looking for a way to get back to KK. The trouble is
of all minibuses present at the market none is going to KK (!).
tells me I have to go into Kota Belud city and fetch a minibus there.
I walk into town (already very hot at 11am) and manage to find a
We leave at 11:05am and reach KK at 12:20pm. The ride costs only RM 5.
Surprisingly there is also a Sunday
market in KK (could I have stayed in KK and saved myself a lot of time
?). After lunch I walk a bit around KK and take some photos. Then I go
to the waterfront and look for a boat to show me around the islands of
the Tunku Abdul Rahman NP. I find a boat and negotiate a price of RM
for a trip to four islands (about one hour). When we leave at 1:45pm,
sea is a bit rough. The islands have nice beaches, with almost white
and crystal clear water. We are back in KK at 3:15pm.
In a KFC restaurant I cool down a
bit after over an hour in the strong sun and have a snack. Then I go
to the hotel, download my emails, take a shower and pack my things. At
5:15pm I take a taxi (RM 15) to
the airport. After checking in I enquire at the MAS office about
the booking of my flight from Kuala Terengganu to KL on Friday (I'd
to get back to KL earlier). Seems like all flights from Kuala
to KL on Thursday and Friday are fully booked. Then I go to the
The flight from KK to KL is not that
great. I'm cramped in a tiny seat in the last row of the plane. Next to
me a very smelly Indian guy who eats with the open mouth making noises
and after that cleans his nose with his fingers.
All of a sudden a flash fires. Surprise,
surprise, the lady in the other row just took a photo of me. Yesterday,
while I was waiting in front of the Kinabalu park HQ for the bus, four
locals took a photo of me (with them next to me). It's kind of funny -
I take photos of locals and locals take photos of me.
When we arrive to KLIA airport I
have to go again through immigration. Compare that with the EU, where
the seven countries of the Schengen zone there are no border controls,
while within Malaysia there are. At 10:30pm the flight to Kota Bharu
(KB) takes off. We arrive at 11:20pm. The taxi into town is RM 17. In
Bharu it is again difficult to find a hotel. The school holidays
and many hotels are fully booked. After some searching I find a room in
the Star hotel.
8.9: Kota Bharu (KB)
Perhentian Besar island, RM 60 for a bungalow with A/C, fan, bath with
cold shower, not much else, but very nice (on the beach); two
in the room
sunny, partly overcast in KB in the morning, quite hot; overcast in
TMTouch in Kota Bharu (as well as the other major GSM networks);
with TMTouch on the road KB - Kuala Besut and on the beach in
Besar; also coverage with Maxis; Celcom appears on the screen, but I
connect through it.
In the morning I wake up at 8 something
am, still tired of the Mt Kinabalu climb. I still have difficulties
I manage to get out of the hotel at 10:30am and walk into KB downtown.
Kota Bharu is the capital of Kelantan, which together with Terengganu,
is the most islamic of the Malaysian states. You notice it on the
as almost all women follow the Islamic dress code and many men have a
I have some lunch in an AW restaurant,
then walk to the taxi station. An A/C taxi to Kuala Besut is 35 RM
A/C 28 RM). At 11:50am I drive back to the Star hotel with a taxi (huge
traffic jam - it takes us 25 minutes to reach the hotel). After getting
my bags and checking
out of the hotel, we drive to Kuala Besut. It should take only one hour
to get to Kuala Besut, but because on this Monday morning there is so
traffic in Kota Bharu we only reach the jetty in Kuala Besut at
The speedboat to Perhentian (30 min.)
costs 60RM (return ticket) and leaves at 2:30pm. From Perhentian the
leaves at 8am, 12pm and 4pm. The slow boat takes about 1:30h and costs
40 RM (return ticket). From the office of the Perhentian Pelangi travel
agency (where I bought the boat ticket) I make a booking to Coco Huts
chose it from a list of places they gave me in the Pelangi travel
according to location and price).
After a 30 minutes very bumpy boat
ride (luckily the harddisk of my notebook survives) we reach
There is now kind of a floating jetty on Perhentian Besar island, so
you don't have to walk into the water to reach the beach anymore.
All in all it looks like the beach
facing Perhentian Kecil where I'm staying has undergone some
since last time I've been there (in 2000). IBI's no longer exists and
its place there is now a new resort called Tuna Bay with good A/C
for RM 160-250. There is now an imposing - and completely useless and
of place - building called "Perhentian marine park administrative
Luckily it's hidden behind the palm trees and doesn't disturb too much.
There is a board saying "... all visitors engaging in activities in the
marine park must pay a RM 5 fee...". How funny - pay where ?
I take a bungalow at Coco huts for
RM 60/night (see above). After settling down I have a walk on the
Cozy chalets is now abandoned - a pity, as its bungalows were in a very
good location. There are several boats on the beach, suggesting that
is now more commercialised. Surprisingly there are very few foreign
(the rooms of Coco huts are almost all empty). There are several
tourists however, probably because of the school holiday week (7-14
The sea water seems a bit less clean
than last time. When I walk into the sea for a swim I am greated by a
of small tiger fish who like Piranhas start biting my legs checking if
there is something eatable. It nerves a bit, but it is also cool to be
among exotic fish. The coral is very close to the beach, making
difficult. Lots of coral pieces lie on the northern part of the beach -
probably this coral has been destroyed in the past years.
I'll probably stay on Perhentian
for three or four nights and visit Redang and Lang Tengah as a day trip
by boat (the boat should cost RM 200 and in any case less than RM 300
to the Coco Huts manager). I'll skip Kenyir lake.
In the evening I call Shirley. She
tells me that... she is pregnant. Now this is GREAT news! It will be
first baby (we got married last year).
(see above). In the meantime I found another cockroach in the room.
blue sky with a few clouds in the morning and until about 3pm; very
shower at 3pm lasting about 20 minutes; lighter (brief) shower
and rain again in the evening
see above; coverage only on the beach facing the mainland
I basically spend the whole day not
doing much. I get up at about 10 something am and have some kind of
breakfast/lunch. Then I shoot some photos of the beach and after that I
walk along the coast to the north, towards the Coral View resort. The
tall palm trees which were lining the beach three years ago are now all
gone. It looks like the monsoon grabbed them away in one of the
winters. A few palm trees have survived and are growing upwards again.
At the Coral View resort (rooms for
RM 150 - 280) I have a late lunch at 2:20 pm. Then at about 3pm, when
like to take a boat to Long Beach on Perhentian Kecil (the smaller of
two Perhentians), the sky suddenly gets very dark and it starts raining
like hell for about 20 minutes. Since the sky is still heavily clouded
after that, I realise that basically the day is gone and walk back to
I spend the rest of the day swimming
in the sea, editing my photos and just hanging around. In the evening
receptionist tells me that no boatsman is willing to do the trip to
I'll probably go by boat to Kuala Besut on Thursday and from there
a taxi to Merang and then another boat to Redang.
Tomorrow I'm moving out of here - tired of sharing the room with the
blue sky with a few clouds in the morning; more or less overcast in the
afternoon but still no rain; in the evening at 6:45pm, very sudden,
heavy rain which lasts for about 20 minutes
as above; on Long Beach (Perhentian Kecil) no network; but on the side
of P. Kecil facing the mainland there is coverage - as in 2000.
Day spent not doing much, just walking
around the Perhentian Besar and Kecil islands. I get up around 10am and
after a late breakfast I start my day at 11 something am. I walk along
the beach towards south, shooting a picture every now and then. Later,
when looking at the photos on the computer, the pictures look like in
commercials where they show the perfect tropical island. A perfectly
sky with crystal clear sea water, perfectly green palm trees, wonderful
colours etc. The camera makes this island look even better than it is.
Or perhaps Perhentian is really that great - and indeed it's Malaysia's
most beautiful island, light years ahead of anything you can find on
I walk towards Flora bay. At one
point it gets impossible to continue along the beach as rocks block the
way. There is a small jungle path which leads to Flora bay. It takes
25 minutes to get to Flora bay, walking across the hot, steamy jungle.
Flora bay has a relatively long, white sand beach. There are four or
resorts. It is easier swimming here as there are no corals near the
The sea water is a bit less clear here, probably because the bay
the water exchange (the beach of Coco Huts faces Perhentian Kecil and
the channel between the two islands there is a moderate current, which
kind of flushes away all dirt).
After half an hour in Flora bay I
take a taxi boat to Long Beach at 1:35pm (RM 13). Long Beach, as the
says it, is a quite long white sand beach. The sand here is really
while the sand on the Coco Huts beach is slightly yellowish. It's a
beach, but unfortunately overdeveloped and there are too many boats.
beach was more quiet three years ago.
I have some lunch and then start
walking across the path which crosses Perhentian Kecil and connects
Beach with the beach on the opposite side of the island. At one point
is a monitor lizard blocking my way. He is probably heating up in the
and refuses to run away, no matter how close I get. I take several
including a macro shot of the head (!). Finally the monitor lizard has
got enough of so much attention and moves away.
The beach on the opposite side of
Perhentian Kecil, well... sucks. The sand is yellowish and there is a
smell of rotting stuff (rotten eggs smell). I then go back to Long
and at 4pm I take a boat back to Coco Huts. The rest of the day is
not doing much - swimming in the sea, having a first look at the
I shot, having dinner etc. By the way, my body is red like a tomato. I
probably was exposed too long to the sun today. I'll have to avoid the
Tomorrow I'm taking the boat to Kuala
Besut at 12pm. Then I'm taking a taxi to Merang and from there a boat
Redang. Will have a look at the island.
11.9: Perhentian -> Kuala Besut
-> Merang -> Redang
Resort, Redang, Pasir Panjang Besar beach, RM 180 for a smallish double
room (A/C, two beds with warm blankets, bath + hot shower; breakfast
in a resort on a large beach: The room is kind of decent but overpriced
at RM 180. The toilet needs to be repaired. Again I find cockroaches -
this time in the toilet. Good restaurant (but not cheap).
the whole day, no rain, not so hot. In the evening the clouds cover
and some blue sky appers. Heavy showers at 11:30pm (just started while
I'm writing this).
very weak signal of Maxis and Celcom on Pasir Panjang beach; TMTouch
on the part of the island facing the mainland
In the morning I get up before 10am
and am ready with my things packed at 11am. After a brunch at 11am, I
for the speedboat. This arrives at 12:20pm and reaches Kuala Besut half
an hour later.
I check my email in the office of
the Perhentian Pelangi travel agency (where I bought the boat ticket to
Perhentian). Then I fetch a taxi (A/C, RM 60) to the jetty in Merang.
the time we reach the jetty, 1:20 hours later, it's 2:45pm, too late
the last boat which left at 2pm. The only option is to charter a boat.
The boatsman asks for RM 250 (one way), explaining that a ticket to
costs RM 40 and a boat usually leaves full. Some discussion, I explain
that RM 250 is way too expensive. In the end we settle on RM 100 (one
The sea today is surprisingly calm
- very few waves and the ride is relatively smooth (compared to the
bumpy boat ride from Kuala Besut to Perhentian). We first go to kind of
in Redang and I wonder if this is Redang. Where are the beautiful
? But it turns out that the boatsman just wants to bring home his
who is also on the boat. After we continue the boat trip and -
- the wonderful beach appears. Actually we pass a series of smaller
all quite nice, on the eastern side of Redang, and finally land on a
and large beach of white coral sand called Pasir Panjang Besar. It's
and the boat ride took almost one hour, including the stops.
Pasir Panjang is a beautiful beach,
split in two lagoons. There are several resorts, many boats and many
Most tourists here are Asian (probably almost all Malaysian). Finally I
have found out where all Malaysians have gone for the school holidays.
It's interesting to note that the Lonely Planet I have (Ed. '99) only
one page about Redang, while it as several pages about
It appears to me that Redang has
more to offer than Perhentian: nowhere in Perhentian is there a beach
as Pasir Panjang (even Long Beach is not as nice) and there is a huge
is small islands and rocks near Redang, making it an ideal destination
for divers. On the other hand, Perhentian is less developed and more
while Redang is more upmarket, expensive and has higher class resorts.
I think Shirley would like Redang. A pity I haven't been here
There is a resort, the Laguna Redang
Island, which looks quite elegant and endowed with several facilities
a pool). They have all-inclusive 3 days/2 nights packages priced quite
attractively, considering what they offer.
After exploring the area I swim in
the sea. Near the rocks there is some small jelly fish. In the evening
I have a dinner in the Ayu Mayang resort where I'm staying. The nice
and very good food make up for the mediocre room. A feeling like being
in Sanur in Bali.
12.9: Redang -> Kuala Terengganu
-> Kuala Lumpur (KL)
KL, 140 RM for a double room with A/C, bath and all extras; at night I
freeze as the A/C is too cold and the blankets are too thin
& hot with clouds layer in the morning; thick cloud layer in the
and rain in Kuala Terengganu at 4pm
for Redang see above; all major networks in Kuala Terengganu and KL
After getting up at 9:20am and having
a breakfast at 10am I pack my things. At 11am I start a walk around the
beach which now is less crowded than yesterday. The island now looks a
bit less impressive than yesterday - the Pasir Panjang beach is still
but overall it's a bit too developed. I'm kind of missing the wild
Almost all tourists are Asian, only
very few western. In fact it's surprising to meet Asian people on a
as (fair-skinned) Asians such as Chinese and Japanese for instance are
very concerned to keep their skin fair and avoid the sun. The Asian
of beauty is a fair skin.
At 12:15pm I check out of the room
and have lunch in the resort restaurant. I then edit my photos until
2pm, when the ferry to Merang is leaving. There will be a taxi waiting
for me in Merang. The boat to Merang is almost totally filled with
Chinese tourists - I'm the only western tourist.
The boat leaves the beach at 2:15pm
and takes only 30 minutes to reach Merang. After some waiting the taxi
arrives and at 3pm we leave for Kuala Terengganu. Since in fact there
not too much time left to see Kuala Terengganu I ask the driver to stop
at the airport, which is on the way. I'm planning to check in my
so that I have more time in Kuala Terengganu. Unfortunately it's only
and the check-in counter won't open before 4pm - and the taxi outside
waiting. So I simply leave the luggage at the information counter (the
bag and the ticket - I ask a guy to check in the luggage for me). Then
I leave with the taxi and about 15 minutes later we are in Kuala
at the Zaidin mosque.
The town is pretty much deserted,
as it's Friday, the Muslim prayer day, and many shops are closed and
few people are on the streets. To top it all it soon starts raining
heavily. Luckily, smart me, I brought the umbrella with me and my small
backpack has an integrated raincover. In any case there isn't too much
to see in Kuala Terengganu - and I can't find the market anyway. I get
some take away food at a KFC restaurant and am then in a taxi at
on the way back to the airport (RM 20 for the taxi).
The 17:55 MAS flight to KL is pretty
much under Japanese control, as a selection of pupils of the Japanese
in KL is onboard - 105 Japanese children to be precise. They are on
way back to KL from a three days/two nights trip to Kota Bharu, Lake
and Kuala Terengganu. The flight lands around 6:40pm in
KLIA and very speedily I manage to get my luggage and proceed to the
I take the 7pm KLIA express to KL. In the evening I have a dinner with
Shirley, her sister Sara and her mom in Chinatown (and have to drag all
of them there, as they don't want to go to such a touristy place).
KL -> Bangkok Airport -> Ayutthaya
Hotel, Ayutthaya (Thailand), 1760 Baht for a nice double roomm in a
hotel on the river
in KL in the early morning, then overcast the whole day; almost no rain
all major networks in KL
I wake up at 8:20am. Didn't sleep
well last night as the room was far too cold and the blankets too thin.
So I just stay in bed until 9:30am, then manage to get ready for
at 10:15am. Shirley has already had breakfast and is going to see a
this morning. I take a taxi to the Citibank in
Jalan Ampang and get some cash. Then, with the same taxi I drive back
the hotel (actually I get out at the Monorail station next to the
The Monorail, whose construction began several years ago and was
for a couple of years, has been completed last year and finally started
operating this year on September 1st. It is currently open only between
10am and 3pm. The ticket price is RM 1. The trains run approx. every 10
minutes. When I get into the monorail (at noon) is jam packed with
At the Bukit Bintang station
I get out and go to the Sungei Wang shopping complex. There I make my
way to the
consumer electronics / IT section. I find nothing too interesting -
some tablet PCs and some desknotes (mix between desktop PC and notebook
computer). I buy some CDs in a shop and then have lunch at the Japanese
Teppanyaki restaurant. Then I go to Kimarie's for a haircut.
When I get out again of the shopping
complex it's already 3:30pm. I go to the Delifrance in the Lot 10
complex and have some food. At 4pm I take a taxi back to the Concorde
Time to say good-bye to Sara and Shirley's mom. After checking my email
I pack my things - we'll check in our luggage until Munich and spend
night in a hotel in Thailand. Shirley bought a stylish, huge suitcase
I told her that her old ones were not nice. No idea if we'll be above
At 6pm we check out. Checking out
and organising a taxi takes us 20 minutes. We reach KL International
at 7:15pm. It's no problem checking in the luggage until Munich. The
weight is 46 Kg - within the tolerances. No need to use the cargo
Since it's already late we proceed directly to the departure gate. The
flight leaves on time. While in the plane I get the idea
of spending the night in Ayutthaya and do some sightseeing on Sunday
before leaving for Munich.
We reach Bangkok at 9:30pm local
time. We then check if it is possible to get a boarding pass for Munich
already today. It turns out to be impossible. But the lady at the
tells me that if the flight leaves at 12:40pm it is sufficient that we
check in at 12pm since we have no check-in luggage. I then try to make
a reservation for some decent seats on the plane, but the Thai airways
office is already closed. So I head to the taxi counter and get a
for a taxi to Ayutthaya. Quite expensive at 1200 Baht. But hey, we get
a Mercedes limo for that.
Ayutthaya lies about 60 km from the
airport and the taxi driver needs only half an hour to get there. It's
now 11pm and we check in at the Krungsri River Hotel. Tomorrow we'll
a taxi at 9am and do some sightseeing before driving to the airport.
-> BKK Intl. Airport -> Munich
and hot in Thailand with some rain in the morning; sunny and quite
in the evening in Munich
all major Thai networks in Ayutthaya and BKK intl. airport
After getting up at 8am Thai time
and having breakfast I leave the hotel at 9am with the hotel's car and
driver. Until about 10:40am we manage to visit seven temples. It's
and in between it starts raining. The weather couldn't be worse for
taking - well yes, it could be worse: it could rain even heavier and
could be a storm. In any case I manage to shoot about 100 images before
getting back to the hotel. By the way, the car + driver for Ayutthaya
the ride back to the airport costs 1900 Baht.
At 10:45am Shirley and I leave finally
and drive to BKK international airport. We manage to reach the airport
in a relatively short time - just a bit over half an hour later. We
check in (I had booked some good seats calling from the hotel before
for the temples tour) and proceed to the departure area. There we spend
the last Baht on some food (dried fruits, banana-coconut pastries
The flight leaves on time at 12:40pm
Thai time. There is not much to do on the plane, except watching the
and eating something every now and then. I start editing and sorting my
images, but the battery is finally empty after about three hours.
We land in Munich at 6:45pm German
time. Then it takes forever to get the luggage (around 40 minutes).
it's really cool - it's quite obvious that the hot summer is over. We
the S-Bahn (local train) to downtown Munich. The S-Bahn today only
until the central station. Then, since it's already after 9pm and we
tired, we just fetch a taxi back to Unterhaching (the suburb of Munich
where we live). We are finally at home at 9:40pm. Seems that nothing
happened during our absence. We sleep by 10:40pm.
Copyright (c) 2003