Olympus E-1 digital camera resource
Last update: Feb. 2nd, 2012
Feb. 2nd: Lenses section updated
Nov. 8th: information resource set up
Will you help me ?
I can't have my eyes everywhere and if you are aware of any information
specific to the Olympus E-1 which isn't yet available here, or if
you'd like to leave your own user report, you can send it to me here.
Just leave a notice in the message box below (leave name and email
adress if you'd like me to reply to you):
data and reference manuals
Reviews and previews
RAW file format
- Olympus has released a codec
for Windows Vista. The codec is a piece of software running under
Windows Vista with which Vista can import and display RAW images of all
Photoshop from Adobe is capable of converting E-1 RAW files. You will need the Camera
RAW 2.2 plugin (no way to check if earlier versions do support E-1 RAW files, but anyway the current is CR 5.5).
But you can get free RAW converters like Ufraw,.
- Another good RAW converter is Olympus
- dcraw by Dave
Coffin is an open source software used by several RAW converters, which
can convert E-1 RAW files. It's available as source code, command line
executable or within a large number of image editing softwares. See
Dave Coffin's page for an exhaustive list.
- Even Irfanview can
decode E-1 RAW files, thanks to the dcraw code.
- The E-1 takes only CF or Microdrive cards.
- Olympus released the firmware
1.5 for the Olympus E-1 and hasn't released any other update since Nov 2007. This is a stable release :
- -Improved the focusing accuracy when using the EC-20 Teleconverter.
You can find the fixes for older releases for the E-1 at the Olyumpus site
aberrations / Purple fringing
- To remove chromatic aberrations you can process the RAW image
with the Adobe Photohop RAW plugin.
- To remove chromatic aberrations with
an image editor (desaturation of the magentas):
- It is very simple to remove chromatic
aberrations from an image. Simply use a photo editor and set the
level of magenta (also green where this makes sense) to the minimum. In
some images you might have to set the saturation level of red to the
It might also make sense to limit the processing to the affected area
select the affected image area and only process that).
BLM-1 battery and cheaper 3rd party alternatives
- According to Federico del Vall 3rd party BLM-1 batteries fail in
Been recently to Ushuaia -
(Patagonia, Argentina) and found Oly's BLM-1's made sense.
I have three different
compatible batteries and tree Olympus, two for each cam.
BLM-1's are rated at -10 °C worst case, so I made no worries. But at this temperature, quite
common around Ushuaia these days, while a BLM-1 would last one to two
of my photoshooting days at 20°C, lasted no more than an hour or so. Compatibles failed after no more
than 10 minutes.
So set to the task of
heating the batteries to ~30° for half an hour, and found the BLM-1
could still be used once more for one hour, and the compatibles too,
but for other 10 minutes or so. But then none.
At these temperatures (-10-0 °C) Oly's BLM-1's are worth their
price. On the other
hand, in Salta,
(north Argentina) where temperature is nice troughout the year, both
types endured quite the same.
- Warthog did his own comparison test of original
Olympus BLM-1 batteries and 3rd party ones (page is in Finnish!):
- I tested this
original Olympus batteries (3 pieces, two of them 2,5 years, one is 9
months old) and two replacement batteries (2 years old). I used 15 Ohm
resistor, pictures taken every minute with my E-100 and Canon TC-80N3
timer remote controller. I tried QuickTime to record my measurements,
but that timer is more practical.
Original batteries are
expensive, but very good. Replacement batteries are cheap and good....
results of replacement batteries
results of Olympus batteries & evaluation of both batteries
- See this
which contains an overview of currently available BLM-1 battery clones:
Olympus BLM-1 (original), PS-BLM1 (7DayShop.com), WT-BLM1
(SterlingTek.com), Energizer OM-1, Hahnel HL-M1, UNiROSS VB104295,
WinTop PS-BLM1 and e-Film (Delkin) BLM1. The author rates the batteries
according to construction, capacity, (low voltage) protection and cost.
It appears that not all 3rd party alternatives are created equal.
- Test added which shows
capacity the original Olympus BLM-1 battery and cheap 3rd party
alternatives have. With the batteries I had (one original and two 3rd
party ones) I measured the following:
- Original Olympus battery: 1299 mAh
- 3rd party battery 1: 1077
- 3rd party battery 2: 744
- This is OK, since
the Olympus original BLM-1 battery costs 17 times more than the 3rd party
alternatives I bought.
- The complete test results
are available here.
- The original BLM-1 battery from Olympus is rated at 7.2 Volt and
1500 mAh. The alternatives have voltages of 7.2 or 7.4 Volt and
capacities of 1300 or 1500 mAh.
- The voltage difference is no problem:
- The 7.2 Volt which Olympus officially quotes varies in reality
between 6.7 Volt (discharged battery) and 7.7 Volt (fully charged
battery). These are voltages measured under a pretty heavy load of over
1 Ampere (battery loaded with a 6.8 Ohm resistor).
- With no load the measured voltages become 7.37 Volt in a
discharged state (emtpy battery screen showing) and 8.2 Volt (battery
=> In other words, it's highly
irrelevant if the battery is rated at 7.2 or 7.4 Volt - the camera can
withstand 7.7 Volts without problems.
- The capacity difference is also something not to worry about.
There is no big difference between 1500 and 1300 mAh (we are talking of
a 10% difference), but the 3rd party battery costs a fraction of the
- Personally I bought two 3rd party BLM-1 batteries in August 2004
from a Hong Kong eBay seller.
- Price per battery was
US $ 5.49 and the total cost including
shipping was US $17.
- The batteries arrived
in 10 days to my home in Germany.
- I tested one of
these cheap "counterfeit" batteries. It lasted
for over 600 shots (SHQ, all with the LCD on, about 10% with flash) and
still had juice left when I got tired and interrupted the test. It just
fast battery charger (this has been reported by Rod in the Olympus E-1
My results are the
Oly charger took around 5 hours to get to a
full charge and the Vidpro about half that (which is what they
advertise). BUT, it could be the second battery I charged on the Vidpro
didn't need that much charging - what I did wasn't under very
controlled conditions re residual charge before recharging.
The Vidpro (US $30)
charger base is a little larger than the
Oly, and also has an AC to DC module (a little smaller than the Oly
unit itself) that plugs into the AC wall socket whereas the Oly unit
accepts AC directly with the supplied AC cord. Both the Oly &
Vidpro accept 100v-240v, but the big difference I like is that the
Vidpro has a 12v DC (vehicle, etc.) adapter allowing the batteries to
be charged in the field.
photography with the Olympus E-1
- Here is an interesting
thread in the Fourthirds forum about infrared photography with the Olympus E1.
- These sites contain useful information about infrared photography
with digital cameras:
Digital infrared photography - site devoted to digital infrared
photography with image galleries, information about filters and
equipment and links.
Infrared Photography page
- excellent information resource devoted to infrared photography with
Olympus cameras. Information about infrared filters, exposure settings,
focus, post-processing, sample images and links.
- Also see the Infrared
photography page of the Apogee magazine: this is an interesting
general introduction to infrared photography with digital cameras.
length in mm
(multiply by 2 to get
rectilinear ultra wide angle
| Not available, filters
cannot be screwed on
DC HSM 10-20
length in mm
(multiply by 2 to get
- Prime lenses (fixed focal
- Extension tubes,
teleconverters and adapters
Tube for double magnification
|| 1.4x teleconverter
||Adapter to connect OM lenses to
- The Olympus E-1 has a standard flash hotshoe and can
- Try out the Metz flash units - cheap and reliable. Alternatively
try the FL-36 or other Olympus flash units.
- See here
for how to measure the trigger voltage of your flash.
Controlling the Olympus E-1 with a computer
- Ikelite launches the 6855
underwater housing for the E-1. You will find all details and lots
of images on the Ikelite page. The housing sells around USD 1000 - not
- The site Digideep.com
is an online directory for digital underwater photography.
- Interesting forum for underwater photography: DigitalDiver.net
by Kurt Stege, is a free tool to recover deleted images from a memory
card. Recommended, alough it involves more work an e tool of
- These software tools are not free, so since Convar's software is
available for free, there is no real need to use them:
- Check this site: Digital
Christian Grau has some software
tools to fix damaged memory cards. The software used to be free, now
also has a software tool (Photorescue) for repairing damaged memory
although it's not free.
is another tool. Price is $39.95.
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus E-1 user
- The picture files of the Olympus E-1
contain the complete exposure information (aperture, exposure time,
leng, white balance etc.).
- To read this data you can use these
by Ryuuji Yoshimoto. Haven't tried the software myself, but it looks
Image Viewer, by Michal Kowalski. This is the one I'm using.
from his homepage:
"EXIF viewer is a simple image
viewer application for photos taken with digital cameras. It's capable
of reading EXIF information embedded in photos as well as little
Because small thumbnail is already present in most photos displaying it
is really fast.
EXIF viewer can also provide
detailed information about photos (shutter speed, aperture, etc.) and
list them for comparison purposes.
EXIF viewer also displays image
histogram. It also features copying/moving and deleting of selected
Single photograph can be displayed in separate window or in a full
by Friedemann Schmidt. I'm using this one too. It can rewrite EXIF data
to images which lost it due to processing with a software package which
doesn't support EXIF. Quoting from his site:
"Exifer is a nearly free software
(you only should send me a postcard if you're using Exifer frequently)
with which you can manage the metadata (EXIF/IPTC) of pictures taken by
digital cameras. Because many image processing software destroys this
when saving such files, the idea was to create a backup of the metadata
before editing it in any software, and then, after that to restore it
into the processed file. With Exifer you can do this very easily. "
- Below are the steps necessary to connect the E-1 to a linux
||here are the
steps (I'm on Suse 9.0 ):
1. boot Suse
$ sudo tail
* use external
-> "USB" must be set to "PC" (not "PRINT")
* set playback
mode on cam
* make sure
camera is turned off
with USB cable
2. turn camera
* drive icon
appears on desktop: sda1
-> properties: device /dev/sda1 mounted at /media/sda1)
on it would mount the cam and open it in Konqueror
=> convenient thumbnail previews)
-f for USB stuff)
... or just
wait a moment
4. get the
$ mount | grep
$ mount /media/sda1
$ mount |
on /media/sda1 type vfat (rw,nosuid,nodev,sync,user=tobi)
$ cd /media/sda1/dcim/100olymp/
$ cp -i ./*
$ mv -i ./*
$ umount /media/sda1
$ mount |
- Brian Miller created a page about using
C-5050Zoom Digital Camera with Linux. Tons of detailed information
on how to interface a 5050 with Linux. This information probably also
holds for a E-1.
- The page Using
the Olympus Camedia C-3040 Zoom Digital Camera with Linux and USB
Micheal Schubart contains a description on how to download photos from
an Olympus 3040 to a computer running Linux with USB. The procedure
there should also apply to an Olympus E-1.
Comments ? Put them in the Olympus E-1 user
with the Olympus E-1
© Copyright 2011 Alfred Molon and Jesus Consuegra